Tuesday, February 13, 2024

Siena 21

The Last - This and That

Here is one last post on Siena.


A church porch



Hotel Atrium. This used to be an open courtyard, when the building was a private Palazzo. 



Now a great glass ceiling makes a gathering room below. The boxy thing on the right is the elevator.



The view from our room



Siena is famous for its Palio, the twice yearly summer horse races 🏇 by the various neighborhoods, each in its traditional colors and patterns. The horses are assigned. The race is held in the town square with slopes, wicked corners, and massive crowds 
The jockeying is brutal. Bareback, mind you. It doesn’t matter if the jockey comes off; the horses can win riderless.



And the shops will sell you a souvenir. 



Or food, fresh and colorful 


Italian pottery is everywhere. All hand painted. Much of it is made in Daruta. 




This plate shows the neighborhood symbols and colors used in the horse races. The black and white at the top is Siena’s coat of arms.



I wanted to take home this Green Man, but I only had a carry-on-size bag, quite full, so he stayed. 



This marvelous sculpture was on a fountain at the entrance of Tortoise Street (in Italian, of course).



We wondered what these rings were for. They were too high to be for tying horses. They were for torches, to light the streets. 



This beautiful wood carving was one of a pair on a door, almost identical, but not quite. The craftsman had either gotten better on the second one, or had gotten tired on the second one, because one was very slightly better made than the other. 



The door knocker on the Egyptian museum



A restaurant, one of innumerable vaulted spaces in the bowels of the brick buildings, probably once storage cellars or pig styies. 


Food was not entirely pleasing on this trip.  I tried not-standard things and got some surprises. 
This appetizer was bacon fat on dried out bread. It tasted good, but I would have fixed it differently. 


The main course was …. Umm…. this rawness over a bed of greens underneath. 
Notice Somebody stayed with true and trusted selections. 



This was a most appealing little shop for writers.


This equine was made from heated plastic bottles pressed in a horse form.


We tried a “cookie.” Like most Italian food, it was heavy. Tasty, but very solid and dense. 


We did eventually go to a place with very fine food that I liked - after a place whose grilled t-bone veal cutlet was still mooing it was so undercooked.
But this place had exquisite molecular cuisine, of which this was the appetizer. Each thing had a delicate and delectable flavor. 


I wanted a pizza while we there, but it was too pure for my taste: bland, no salt, no herbs, only exactly what was written on the menu. I like my own better. 
But the trip was overall good, the sights worth seeing, and experiences gained. 



Then homeward bound on the train, back to winter. 

Saturday, February 10, 2024

Siena 20

Painting Collection

A noble family had a large collection of historic paintings that passed to subsequent generations. Some of the collection is now in a gallery setting in the Old Hospital. (Again, please excuse the glare on the varnish.)


Beautifully rendered drapery and skin







Small but beautifully painted



Part of a very large piece.




A very fine piece


Bible story Italian style



The Visit of Mary to Elizabeth. Note the assumption that Joseph escorted his betrothed on her journey there. And note the gentlemanly handshake. This is not a typical scene -quite a unique take, actually. 


And many more, of which I didn’t get pictures.

And that is the end of that particular visit. 

Thursday, February 8, 2024

Siena 19

Another Children’s Exhibition, Etc.


These were nearly life-size terracotta sculptures 


Romulus and Remus again. 


Some old pottery finds once used in the kitchens 

Some elevation models of the building 







And it goes down and down from there

Tuesday, February 6, 2024

Siena 18

In the Depths

In the vaulted under layers of the Old Hospital were some rooms protecting the two old iterations of the sculptures of the main fountain. The oldest ones were so worn as to be barely recognizable. The later ones, by a different sculptor, were less worn, but also in disrepair. A new version of each was subsequently made. 







To compare older and newer 



Try copying from that!



Oldest



Damaged



Newer


The creation of Adam

Sunday, February 4, 2024

Siena 17

Blessed Sunday 

While it is February, and nearing Lent, it is still Epiphany, so I have no compunctions in posting yet another Crèche. The Divine Son was manifest, after all, to shepherds, to Wise Men, to town folk.


On a brilliant morning, on our first full day in Siena, we had this view from our balcony. We subsequently went to both churches. The Duomo is on the left. 


We just started walking, to see what we would see.



We came to a church - of course! - and went in to take look. Classical. And on the left, a Creche still up.



Presided over by this fellow, bathed in a beautiful light.



Compared to what we saw later, this was a simple Nativity, but still lovingly presented.



“Let us go now, and see.”


‘And they found Mary, and Joseph, and the Baby lying in a manager, as it had been told unto them.”


On the opposite wall were St. George and St. Christopher, and a Madonna. 


Then back out to the streets….



…and onward to the Duomo.

Saturday, February 3, 2024

Siena 16

Still in the Old Hospital 

In a large long, high-ceiling-ed room, we found a collection of very large paintings from various periods.


Life sized figures 


In a sad state of repair, but still colorful 



Risqué, seemingly unfinished, and one wonders where that was supposed to go.



Dramatic. Likely from the Romantic period, late 1800’s. 


Friday, February 2, 2024

Siena 15

Random Bits

Still in the labyrinthine old hospital/museum, we found rooms with almost nothing in them….



….rooms with odd collections that didn’t seem to relate to each other….

This



And this


And this


And this, with some large random felted pieces. But maybe it was all a fairy tale.

Other rooms were empty, with evidence of some peering behind layers on the walls.


Thus

And long corridors that connected the rooms.





Happy February

Blooms



My amaryllis put out two more blooms. So cheery in the winter.