Mainau Island

To Return to the Flower Island

A brief history:

In the mists of early time, B.C., Celts settled on the island. They were probably some of the same people who built houses on posts in the shallows of Lake Constance, of which much evidence has been found. 

From 15 B.C. to A.D. 400, the island was a Roman naval base. 

After the fall of the Roman Empire, for two centuries it was an Alemannic duchy (German tribe): after which it came under the control of the Franks. 

From 724, the island belonged to a Benedictine monastery situated on a different island, but whose administration buildings were on Mainau. A fortified castle was built by them in the 1200’s. Shortly afterward, the Benedictine monestary was dissolved and the island was given to the Teutonic Order in 1271. They held the island for 500 years. Much Baroque building was done in that time, and the huge ancient Linden trees are from that era.

In the Thirty Years War (1618- 1648), the island was held by the Swedes for two years. They plundered most of the valuables, except the heavy bronze crucifixion trio at the entrance to the island (it was too heavy). 

After the war, restorations were carried out and a new church was built in 1732, along with the a new castle, both still standing. 

But the island was closed shortly thereafter when the Teutonic Order left. The island then became part of the newly formed Grand Duchy of Baden, but was neglected and declined for fifty years under a succession of aristocratic owners who were not interested in it. 

Then in 1827 it was sold to a Hungarian Esterhazy Prince, who planted the first exotic botanicals. After that the history becomes twisty and turny, but fortuitous. That Prince gave the island to his son, who sold it back to the family who had owned it 500 years before, before the Teutonic Knights. A daughter in that family became owner, and married a Swedish count, and sold the island to the Grand Duke of Baden, who became  the progenitor of the current owners, via a bequest to a sister, who was German but also the Queen of Sweden by marriage. That is how the current royal family of Sweden, the Bernadotte family, came to be the owners since 1928 of an island in German territory off the Swiss coast. 

In the hands of this family, the parklands and gardens were created and tourists welcomed.

Of course, there were complications during the War years. The Swedes went home. French collaborators used the island as a base to plot mayhem. Then they fled, and it was equipped to be an officers’ rest home, but that didn’t work because it was allotted to the French in the division of Germany into occupied zones. They left after 1945, and the Bernadotte family returned, repaired, and reorganized. The island was a YMCA for war-damaged young people until 1968. Then it resumed being a garden island for tourists, of which 1.2 million per year visit. The island is now under protection, since 2003, and the owners manage it through a family trust. 

That is quite the convoluted story of one little 45 hectare island, of which 25 hectares are parks, greenhouses, castle & church complex, a ship dock, and vineyards. 

The Swedish Tower, from the 1600’s, but with the top rebuilt in the fanciful style of the romantic 1800’s. 

One of the Twisty trees

Where “everyone” gets pictures taken. 

Willows in the water, hanging on.

The coach road to the castle. One would suspect that the roots were not in the way when coaches used the road. 

Not twisty trees, but shaggy trees, offering respite to a hot crow on a hot day.

Yes, palms, bananas, and other exotic trees live here, too. 

Trees edge the mini farm with small animals, and a little kitchen garden.

A handsome little fellow.

Less so. 

A critter not in the farm, but presiding over the herb garden, both medicinal and poison. 

These won’t kill you. Those in the upper right corner will. 

And one of the ancient Linden trees. 

You have to decipher the art yourself.

To be continued…